October 19th, 2011

Madame Lily Bollinger took control of the Bollinger House in 1941 after it was bequeathed to her by late husband and former head of the House, Jacques.

As a woman, Lily’s new role in an industry dominated by men was to be no mean feat. Lily took on the challenge of running the flourishing business with astonishing determination, tirelessly touring the Bollinger vineyards on her bicycle, overseeing every stage of viticulture and winemaking.

In an era of austerity as a result of war, Lily’s response to such a challenge was to be her making as an icon in the world of Champagne.

At Bollinger, Lily remains a figurehead and powerful inspiration in Bollinger’s insistence on the independence that allows them to produce one of the greatest wines of Champagne.

In 1961 she came to London to release the first vintage of Bollinger RD (récemment dégorgé or “recently disgorged”), incidentally from the 1952 vintage. It was on this occasion 50 years ago this month that Mme Bollinger famously quoted:

“I drink my Champagne when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it — unless I’m thirsty.”